A
mystical land with rugged terrains, snow capped peaks, chanting monks, chiming
monastery bells and colourful costumes. In Tibet, Ladakh is commonly called La-Tag
and Maryul "Red Land". It was called Kha-Chan-Pa "Snow land"
by the old Chinese traveler Fa-Hien. Ladakh has been the dream of adventure lovers
and those in search of peace and solitude. For this reason, travelers call it
'Little Tibet'. Situated between 30 degree to 36 degree east latitude and 76 degree
to 79 degree north longitude, with altitudes ranging from 2750 m at Kargil to
7672 m at Sasar Kangri in the Karakoram, Ladakh is spread over an area of 96,701
Sq.Kms bounded by the great Himalayas and Karakoram Range. Ladakh remains closed
between November and June every year as Srinagar-Ladakh and Ladakh-Manali highways
receive heavy snowfall.
Earlier, Ladakh was one of the provinces of Tibetan
kingdom, governed by an independent prince and its spiritual head was the Kum
Lama or chief pontiff of Lhasa, where Emperor Asoka about 250 BC established Buddhism. Earliest
authentic historical observations of Ladakh reach as far back as the beginning
of Christian era in AD 399-400 when Fa-Hian traveled to Ladakh. In 10th century,
the empire of Great Tibet broke up into several districts headed by chiefs, which
were formed as independent kingdoms. Purang was occupied by Tashi-Degon and Ladakh
by Palgyi-Gon. Thus Ladakh was an independent kingdom ruled by a Gyalpo (King).
From AD 1080 till AD 1110 was the reign of Lhachan Utpala, during which the Alchi
monastery was built. King Trashigon of Gu-ge ruled between AD 1200 and 1230. Lotroi-chogden
ruled Ladakh from AD 1440 till 1470. During this period, rulers of Kashmir sent
their army many times to invade the region. This continued during the reign of
Bhagen Namgyal AD1470-1500. This was followed by Mongolian raids from the north,
Tashi Namgyal gained victory over Mongolians in AD 1517. In AD 1532, Abu Sayed
Mirza Khan of Kashghar gained power with support of Emperor Sikander of Kashmir.
From AD 1555 to AD 1580, Chevang Namgyal, a descendent of the first king
of Tibet, Khri-Tsampo, reconsolidated power in Ladakh. He was succeeded by his
brother Jamyang Namgyal AD 1595. While marching to Puril district, King Jamyang's
troops dispersed due to violent storm, they were attacked by rebels and sent to
Skardo as prisoners along with the king. Ali Mir, a Muslim ruler of Skardu took
advantage, marched upon Ladakh with large forces and took possession of the whole
land in 17th century. During this period, many historical monuments and records
were destroyed. Ali Mir marched back to Skardu completing arrangements for forming
his government of Ladakh. On reaching back he released Jamyang from the prison
and got one of his daughters married to him. People asked Jamyang to restore temple
& images of Buddha and secure new copies of sacred books from Lhasa. Singge
Namgyal succeeded Jamyang in AD1610 and heroically conquered Purang, Guge, Zanskar,
Spiti, Puril, Mayal, Sidee. During his reign, he ordered the building of Hemis,
Chemre,Succeeded by his son Deldan Namgyal in AD 1670, who emulated his father
and installed huge statues of Buddha, plated with copper and gold, in Shey. During
his reign, Tartars from Baltistan invaded Ladakh, Deldan escaped to Kashmir and
sought military aid from Ibrahim Khan, governor of Emperor Aurangzeb. Mughal forces
pushed out Tartars from Ladakh. Deldan embraced Islam and built a mosque in Leh.
Islam got a foothold during Deldan's rule though he himself reverted to
Buddhism. His son Delek Namgyal ruled Ladakh from AD 1705 to 1740, conquered Spiti,
Murad and other areas. Mir of Balti invaded Ladakh and conqured in AD 1750. From
this date to AD 1834, Ladakh faced a repetition of wars.
Dogra Maharaja
Gulab Singh after conquering Kishtawar sent troops in leadership of the great
General Zorawar Singh to Ladakh through Suru Valley on 16 August 1834. Opposed
by the Balti leaders many times, Dogra troops under the command of Basti Ram finaly
with the usage of artilleries captured the fort. Gyalpo in this stalemate collected
forces from other chiefs and pushed out the General. Zorawar Singh managed to
stay in the areas nearby for few month and finally conquered Ladakh and then later
on invaded Baltistan too.
Having
consolidated a huge force, Zorawar Singh invaded Yarkand for its Pashmina wool
trade and rich monasteries. Entire area came under Ladakhis and Dogras. The government
of Lhasa took this invasion seriously and at the same time Chinese forces on 7th
November 1841 moved towards Zorawar Singh and occupied Leh and other areas. Shot
during the battle after fighting fearlessly, General Zorawar Singh breathed his
last.
Maharaja Gulab Singh overcame the general's death after a long time
and sent his forces. Chinese rule was just 6 weeks old when Dogra forces captured
Ladakh and Baltistan once again. In 1846, Basti Ram was in control of the region.
Dogras after systematic wars annexed Ladakh and Baltistan with their kingdom of
Jammu and Kashmir and ruled for more than 100 years.
The history of Ladakh
and Baltistan up to 1947 remained the same till Maharaja Hari Singh chose to join
with Indian Dominion. The partition of India resulted in the invasion of some
parts of Ladakh and Baltistan by China. From their original lineage from Dards
- an Indo-Aryan race from Indus, people of Ladakh have features and attire similar
to that of Tibetans and Central Asian people. Known for their soft attitude, Ladakhis
are very gentle in nature, just opposite to their geographical conditions.
Ladakh
is divided into two districts, Leh and Kargil. |
Getting There
By
Air Indian Airlines operates regular scheduled flights to Leh from
Srinagar, Jammu and New Delhi. Jet Airways operates daily flights from Delhi to
Leh. Travelers get a panoramic view of snow-capped ranges and can see some famous
pinnacles onboard.
By
Road Srinagar to Leh The approach to Ladakh is from the Kashmir
Valley through the 434-km Srinagar-Leh highway, which follows the historic trade
route, also known as the 'Treaty Road'. It is open for traffic from early June
to mid-November. J&K State Transport Corporation (SRTC) operates regular Deluxe
and ordinary bus service from Srinagar to Leh and Kargil charging Srinagar-Leh
Rs. 620 for deluxe coach and Rs. 490 for semi-deluxe coach. Private taxis (Cars
and Jeep type vehicles) are available from many Taxi Stands in Srinagar. From
Srinagar, a smooth journey up to Sonamarg (86 km) is like the dessert before the
main course. The uphill drive to Zoji-la Pass at an altitude of 3505 m. will thrill
you in the first instance. Drass, the first township over the pass, inhabited
by a population of mainly Dard origin, is reputed to be the second coldest inhabited
place in the world. Heading towards Kargil town, the road plunges into the ridges
of the Zanskar Range. Kargil is usually a night stopover for the late arriving
travelers.
Crossing through Pashkyum area, the road passes through several
villages before entering Mulbek which is the transition point from Muslim to Buddhist
Ladakh. Namika-la (3,719 m) and Fotu-la (4,094 m) Passes follow the exit out of
Mulbek valley. The twisting road passes through the spectacular 'moonland' of
Lamayuru, then down towards Khalatse - a descent of almost 1,219 m, in about 32
kms. From here the road follows the Indus river, and at last Leh is visible, dominated
by the bulk of its imposing 17th century palace. |