LADAKH

 A mystical land with rugged terrains, snow capped peaks, chanting monks, chiming monastery bells and colourful costumes. In Tibet, Ladakh is commonly called La-Tag and Maryul "Red Land". It was called Kha-Chan-Pa "Snow land" by the old Chinese traveler Fa-Hien. Ladakh has been the dream of adventure lovers and those in search of peace and solitude. For this reason, travelers call it 'Little Tibet'. Situated between 30 degree to 36 degree east latitude and 76 degree to 79 degree north longitude, with altitudes ranging from 2750 m at Kargil to 7672 m at Sasar Kangri in the Karakoram, Ladakh is spread over an area of 96,701 Sq.Kms bounded by the great Himalayas and Karakoram Range. Ladakh remains closed between November and June every year as Srinagar-Ladakh and Ladakh-Manali highways receive heavy snowfall.

Earlier, Ladakh was one of the provinces of Tibetan kingdom, governed by an independent prince and its spiritual head was the Kum Lama or chief pontiff of Lhasa, where Emperor Asoka about 250 BC established Buddhism.
Earliest authentic historical observations of Ladakh reach as far back as the beginning of Christian era in AD 399-400 when Fa-Hian traveled to Ladakh. In 10th century, the empire of Great Tibet broke up into several districts headed by chiefs, which were formed as independent kingdoms. Purang was occupied by Tashi-Degon and Ladakh by Palgyi-Gon. Thus Ladakh was an independent kingdom ruled by a Gyalpo (King). From AD 1080 till AD 1110 was the reign of Lhachan Utpala, during which the Alchi monastery was built. King Trashigon of Gu-ge ruled between AD 1200 and 1230. Lotroi-chogden ruled Ladakh from AD 1440 till 1470. During this period, rulers of Kashmir sent their army many times to invade the region. This continued during the reign of Bhagen Namgyal AD1470-1500. This was followed by Mongolian raids from the north, Tashi Namgyal gained victory over Mongolians in AD 1517. In AD 1532, Abu Sayed Mirza Khan of Kashghar gained power with support of Emperor Sikander of Kashmir.

From AD 1555 to AD 1580, Chevang Namgyal, a descendent of the first king of Tibet, Khri-Tsampo, reconsolidated power in Ladakh. He was succeeded by his brother Jamyang Namgyal AD 1595. While marching to Puril district, King Jamyang's troops dispersed due to violent storm, they were attacked by rebels and sent to Skardo as prisoners along with the king. Ali Mir, a Muslim ruler of Skardu took advantage, marched upon Ladakh with large forces and took possession of the whole land in 17th century. During this period, many historical monuments and records were destroyed. Ali Mir marched back to Skardu completing arrangements for forming his government of Ladakh. On reaching back he released Jamyang from the prison and got one of his daughters married to him. People asked Jamyang to restore temple & images of Buddha and secure new copies of sacred books from Lhasa. Singge Namgyal succeeded Jamyang in AD1610 and heroically conquered Purang, Guge, Zanskar, Spiti, Puril, Mayal, Sidee. During his reign, he ordered the building of Hemis, Chemre,Succeeded by his son Deldan Namgyal in AD 1670, who emulated his father and installed huge statues of Buddha, plated with copper and gold, in Shey. During his reign, Tartars from Baltistan invaded Ladakh, Deldan escaped to Kashmir and sought military aid from Ibrahim Khan, governor of Emperor Aurangzeb. Mughal forces pushed out Tartars from Ladakh. Deldan embraced Islam and built a mosque in Leh.

Islam got a foothold during Deldan's rule though he himself reverted to Buddhism. His son Delek Namgyal ruled Ladakh from AD 1705 to 1740, conquered Spiti, Murad and other areas. Mir of Balti invaded Ladakh and conqured in AD 1750. From this date to AD 1834, Ladakh faced a repetition of wars.

Dogra Maharaja Gulab Singh after conquering Kishtawar sent troops in leadership of the great General Zorawar Singh to Ladakh through Suru Valley on 16 August 1834. Opposed by the Balti leaders many times, Dogra troops under the command of Basti Ram finaly with the usage of artilleries captured the fort. Gyalpo in this stalemate collected forces from other chiefs and pushed out the General. Zorawar Singh managed to stay in the areas nearby for few month and finally conquered Ladakh and then later on invaded Baltistan too.

Having consolidated a huge force, Zorawar Singh invaded Yarkand for its Pashmina wool trade and rich monasteries. Entire area came under Ladakhis and Dogras. The government of Lhasa took this invasion seriously and at the same time Chinese forces on 7th November 1841 moved towards Zorawar Singh and occupied Leh and other areas. Shot during the battle after fighting fearlessly, General Zorawar Singh breathed his last.

Maharaja Gulab Singh overcame the general's death after a long time and sent his forces. Chinese rule was just 6 weeks old when Dogra forces captured Ladakh and Baltistan once again. In 1846, Basti Ram was in control of the region. Dogras after systematic wars annexed Ladakh and Baltistan with their kingdom of Jammu and Kashmir and ruled for more than 100 years.

The history of Ladakh and Baltistan up to 1947 remained the same till Maharaja Hari Singh chose to join with Indian Dominion. The partition of India resulted in the invasion of some parts of Ladakh and Baltistan by China.
From their original lineage from Dards - an Indo-Aryan race from Indus, people of Ladakh have features and attire similar to that of Tibetans and Central Asian people. Known for their soft attitude, Ladakhis are very gentle in nature, just opposite to their geographical conditions.

Ladakh is divided into two districts, Leh and Kargil.



Getting There

By Air
Indian Airlines operates regular scheduled flights to Leh from Srinagar, Jammu and New Delhi. Jet Airways operates daily flights from Delhi to Leh. Travelers get a panoramic view of snow-capped ranges and can see some famous pinnacles onboard.

By Road
Srinagar to Leh
The approach to Ladakh is from the Kashmir Valley through the 434-km Srinagar-Leh highway, which follows the historic trade route, also known as the 'Treaty Road'. It is open for traffic from early June to mid-November. J&K State Transport Corporation (SRTC) operates regular Deluxe and ordinary bus service from Srinagar to Leh and Kargil charging Srinagar-Leh Rs. 620 for deluxe coach and Rs. 490 for semi-deluxe coach. Private taxis (Cars and Jeep type vehicles) are available from many Taxi Stands in Srinagar. From Srinagar, a smooth journey up to Sonamarg (86 km) is like the dessert before the main course. The uphill drive to Zoji-la Pass at an altitude of 3505 m. will thrill you in the first instance. Drass, the first township over the pass, inhabited by a population of mainly Dard origin, is reputed to be the second coldest inhabited place in the world. Heading towards Kargil town, the road plunges into the ridges of the Zanskar Range. Kargil is usually a night stopover for the late arriving travelers.

Crossing through Pashkyum area, the road passes through several villages before entering Mulbek which is the transition point from Muslim to Buddhist Ladakh. Namika-la (3,719 m) and Fotu-la (4,094 m) Passes follow the exit out of Mulbek valley. The twisting road passes through the spectacular 'moonland' of Lamayuru, then down towards Khalatse - a descent of almost 1,219 m, in about 32 kms. From here the road follows the Indus river, and at last Leh is visible, dominated by the bulk of its imposing 17th century palace.

 

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Placed to Visit in Ladakh
Leh
Monasteries
Pangong Lake
Tso-Moriri
Nubra Valley
Suru Valley
Zanskar

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